Back In Action

I'm back in Jersey after an amazing week in Peru. I left last Friday at 8:50 on a red eye to Lima (we had a stop over in Miami until about 2:00 AM) and took another red eye back home that left Lima Saturday at 11:50 PM. There is no mistake that Peru has it's share of problems. 30,000 Peruvians were killed by terrorism that was very much alive in the 90's, they have a tremendous problem with poverty, and their government is not exactly running the tightest ship (yes, I know not many are) amongst other things, but Peru is filled with very good natured and amazing people. The main reason I went out there was to go to Machu Picchu. What I didn't realize is what simply amazing cities were out there and the people that were in them. From Cusco to Aguas Caliente to Ollantaytambo to Pisca, every place had it's own flavor and was special.

We first spent a few nights in Cusco, which could be my most favorite city I've been to out of anywhere. Our first hotel was Casa Del Campo in the San Blas section of Cusco. I was traveling with my brother and my friend and we got triples in every place we went. Casa Del Campo cost $65 per night divided by three people. Nuts...just nuts. Despite them stealing my hat, it was actually a very nice place. The first day we got there, we just got used to the city and explored it. On it on Sunday, we went off to Pisca where they hold a huge market a few times a week. The market sells all trinkets and gifts for tourists as well as food and goods for locals. Truly an amazing place as the city is nestled between mountains in the shadow of the ruins at Pisca.

The following day, we took a Taxi to Ollantaytambo and hung around there for a few hours waiting for the train to Aguas Caliente, which is the home base for everyone heading to Machu Picchu. After walking around the Plaza de Armas for a bit we were drinking some Cusqueñas at this hostal/restaurant by the train station. A family ran the place and they were great, but the crazy thing is that the place was 15 Soles per night per person which is the equivalent of $4.60. After a few beers, we headed off to Aguas Caliente.

In Aguas Caliente, we stayed at the famous Gringo Bill's Hostal for the bargain price of $55 per night with a great room overlooking the Plaza. We woke up at about 4:00 AM the following day to walk from Aguas up to Machu Picchu so we can fell like we 'earned' it. We had to walk through complete darkness with only a headlamp down train tracks, through two tunnels, and through some jungle going up a lot of stairs. It was absolutely crazy and I resented every lazy bastard who took the bus up to the top. Next time though? I'm definitely taking the bus. Needless to say, Machu Picchu was indescribable.

After Machu Picchu and one more night at Gringo Bill's, we headed back to Cusco and took some crazy bike ride that almost killed me. We started off in Chinchero, rode to the ruins at Moray, and ended up in the Salinas de Maras. The last leg was nine kilometers and was the easiest leg of the trip. I'm afraid to even guess how long the trip actually was. While the trek to Moray was murderous, it came together in Maras where we had to repair a bike tire. We got to give a few local kids some candy, fruit, and whatever else we had to give and played some soccer with the sweetest little girl. She was a nine year old name Clarissa that had a cow, a burro, some chickens, a dog, and duck living basically in her house. After we got the bike fixed, we had a nice downhill ride on some awesome terrain and some switchbacks that ended at the Salinas de Maras which is a place where salt is farmed out in little pools from natural streams with a ridiculously high salt content.

I must have said fuck about 4,000 times during the bike trip and I was not too interested putting myself through much more during our last full day. I was close to calling it a vacation and just hanging out in the city, but we decided to go rafting through Mayuc. The trip goes down the Urubamba River for about 2 1/2 hours and goes through some decent rapids. At the end of the trip, you hang out at their home base on the river and just relax with some amazing views of Peru.

As much as an attraction Machu Picchu and the other ruins are in the Sacred Valley of the Inca, Cusco is just as much of a reason to head down there. Overall, the trip to Peru was amazing. We just booked for the first two nights and found our way the rest of the week. I wouldn't recommend that in the high season, but it worked out great for us. If you are thinking about heading down there and want some tips on where to stay, where to eat, or what to do, let me know.

Here are some pics...there were about a 1,000 overall between everyone, so picking out a few was tough.

First beer in Lima waiting for a flight to Cusco...me in the back catching flies.



Insane mountains on the way to Cusco...



Our first hotel in Cusco at night...



They like to eat guinea pigs...



The Pisca market...



...one more...




Me walking around Ollantaytambo. The ruins here are amazing too, but you get no pics from them because I couldn't find a pic that did them justice.



I generally don't like cats, but while drinking beers in Ollantaytumbo, this cat made it really hard to not like it...



Walking through the jungle to Machu Picchu...



Waiting for the morning fog to clear...



Cliché picture for every tourist that comes here...



Alpacas and llamas are all over the place....atop Machu Picchu is no different...



...one more...



There were tons of pictures from Machu Picchu and the place was just crazy. Not much else I can say and it is hard to actually explain how amazing it is....moving on...

The bike trip from hell started off bad, but ended up pretty good. Me and Clarissa playing soccer...she could connect...don't let her fool you...



The Salinas de Maras were just nuts....the pictures don't even come close to conveying how nuts they are...



The rafting trip was great, but this dog at the home base made me miss my little girl way too much...



The last night in Cusco was filled with debauchery. I really cannot explain how it came to this, but this is a picture of me, two random people watching with much joy, and me about to get kicked in the cojones by a Peruvian. I guess the real question is did she land it?



Q&A from last week's comments:

scott said...

see ya Mike. Have a great time and let us know what the best burger joint is down there.

The best burger joint would probably be Los Perros who serves what I would guess is the biggest burger in the country. While some of Peru may have delightful cuisine, it is hit or miss in the areas around the Sacred Valley of the Inca (see above menu item). I did find that in Cusco the best food places where the ones owned by people not actually from Peru. Jack's Cafe is one of those places and Los Perros is another. Los Perros is a nice bar/restaurant owned by an Australian and Peruvian couple with a menu reminiscent of any trending NY eatery. Also true to their name, there are usually dogs walking around in the joint.